Vol 15: Microplastics, a debate on the HIGG Index, biosynthetic fibers
This newsletter is about the fashion world needing to embrace the challenge of transforming into a more sustainable industry.
In this week’s edition, we cover the fossil fuel impact of the fashion industry, a fantastic Business of Fashion Masterclass on building a sustainable brand, an interview with the new head of sustainability at Rothy’s (she has quite the relevant and impressive resume) and much more.
We hope you’re enjoying these closing days of summer. As a note - we’ll be covering the new McKinsey Fashion on Climate report for our next edition. If you’d like some serious beach reading make sure to check out the 57 page report!
The Embrace Team
Fashion needs to ditch fossil fuels in supply chain. A new report shows the way - STAND.earth
A new report "Fashion forward: A roadmap to fossil-free fashion" released by international environmental organization STAND.earth provides an extensive guide on the decarbonization of the fashion industry.
"The fashion industry’s supply chain is heavily dependent on fossil fuels both for energy needs and increasingly as the source of human-made materials that now dominate the clothes we wear. To make the shift to a 1.5°C emissions pathway needed to respond to the climate emergency, the sector will need to halve its emissions from current levels across all production tiers in the next 10 years, making dramatic cuts in fossil fuel demand. Yet very few companies have taken action to tackle the key areas driving fossil fuel use across their supply chain."
According to the report, major contributors to carbon emissions are coal-fired supply chain, synthetic materials made from fossil fuels, fast fashion's take-make-waste business model, and ocean freight and air cargo shipments.
By committing to divest from fossil fuel, companies can transform the fashion industry. These are 5 important steps fashion brands must take to deplete their emissions rapidly:
setting ambitious climate commitments with full transparency
centering renewable energy in supply chain decisions with specific commitments to phase out coal
advocating for renewable energy policies in supply chain countries
sourcing lower carbon and longer-lasting materials
and reducing the climate impacts of shipping.
Study: Fashion sustainability tools have limited impact - EcoTextile News
A recent study from the University of California, Berkeley questions the validity of sustainability tools in their current state as an accelerator for positive change. In particular, the Higg FEM was found to lack critical incentives to change factory practices:
"If factories were to receive more or fewer orders based on their FEM score, there might be sufficient internal incentives for improvement. Yet this internal mechanism is only likely to be successful if there is external transparency and accountability."
In the absence of effective national and international legislation around sustainability, such tools and certifications fill the gap, however, they have many shortcomings, such as a reliance on self-assessment and lack of transparency.
Biosynthetics vs. Natural Fibers: What Makes a Material Sustainable? – Sourcing Journal
In this episode Sourcing Journal interviews Fibershed's Rebecca Burgess and Higg Co's Jason Kibbey on sustainable sourcing, regenerative agriculture, and the long-lasting impact on our planet of fiber production innovation.
Links to listen: Apple Podcast / Spotify / Simplecast
How to Build a Sustainable Fashion Brand – The Baseline - BoF
The Business of Fashion launched a monthly Masterclass series on How to Build a Sustainable Fashion Brand. Below you'll find the first episode, where BoF's Sarah Kent, Better Work's Tara Rangarajan, and sustainability consultant Michael Sadowski discuss what it takes to establish a responsible business model and why sourcing decisions and building strategic partnerships with key players are critical.
Next Masterclass on Designing with Difference will take place on September 15th (if you're a BoF Professional member, you can sign up here)
Amidst Shifting Consumer Trends and Values, Fashion Industry Looks Towards Sustainable Future - Pandaily
Pandaily provides an overview of how luxury brands are coping with growing consumer demand for sustainable products in the current challenging business climate and the role of China in the sustainability movement. The article features the Hangzhou-based startup Melephant that addresses sustainability challenges in the textile value chain and develops natural dyes made from organic waste.
Around the news
Selfridges to offer clothing rental in environmental push - the UK luxury department store is addressing sustainability with the launch of a five-year sustainability plan called "Project Earth". As part of this initiative, Selfridges will introduce clothing rental, recycling and repair services through a collaboration with clothing rental platform Hurr, luxury goods restoration service Restory, and over 300 brands.
Inside the Corporate Responsibility Strategies Shaping PVH - in this article, BoF provides a look at PVH's sustainability efforts, including Fashion Forward CR strategy, internal diversity and inclusion initiatives, and the impact of Covid-19 on its supply chains. PVH’s Tommy Hilfiger has just launched “Make It Possible” platform to accelerate the company’s sustainability mission.
What’s in Store Under Rothy’s First Sustainability Head - Rothy’s continued growth is rooted in its ethos for sustainability. In an interview with WWD, Saskia van Gendt describes her approach to sustainability as "collaborative and holistic". Prior to joining a San-Francisco based direct-to-consumer sustainable shoe brand, van Gend led the sustainability strategy at Method and managed material sustainability projects in packaging and green building at the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.
Virón, the Plant-Based Footwear Brand, Innovating the Category - looking for a new pair of vegan & eco-friendly sneakers? This Paris-based brand has just launched a collection made of recycled Army tents, canvas polyester, and rubber and plant-based materials, such as apple and corn waste.
Wait, How Much Microplastic Is Swirling in the Atlantic? - scientists are on the quest to find the missing plastic. According to their calculations about 7,000 plastic particles were found so far in a single cubic meter of seawater. But the real concentration of microplastics in the ocean may be far higher.
FOSSIL FUELS - refer to coal, crude oil, natural gas and other fuels generated from fossilized hydrocarbon deposits such as remains of plants and other organisms. Because of their origins, they have a high carbon content.
Extraction, transport and burning of fossil fuels all generate harmful levels of greenhouse gases (GHGs) and emissions (especially CO2) that significantly contribute to global warming and climate crisis.