Vol 13: B Corp's, the Higg Index is updated, Smarter Procurement
...and that Chipotle "sustainable line"
This newsletter is about the fashion world needing to embrace the challenge of transforming into a more sustainable industry.
In this newsletter, we regularly cover a lot of the headline topics at the intersection of fashion and sustainability like material innovation, transformative processes, policy & regulation. But a conversation from last week reminded us that not everything needs a world-changing, leather-out-of-a-plant innovation. Sometimes it’s just about wasting less.
Achieving as close to 100% sell-through can be a pillar of sustainability. Getting smarter on procurement can and should play a huge role in wasting less. Even an ability to discount intelligently, while certainly not a goal (as it still leans towards overproduction), can be part of a toolkit for building a retail operation that wastes less.
We regularly look at the ethical side of supply chains; how we treat workers and the materials we use. That is paramount. But we should also remind ourselves that just getting smarter about how much we produce can play a major role in improving fashion’s overall impact on the environment.
Hope everyone is enjoying their August!
The Embrace Team
…and if you hadn’t seen it, Chipotle released a new line that “upcycles” avocado pits into a dye for Chipotle clothing. We won’t say too much on this 👀
Digital technology, green finance in vogue among fashion’s sustainability trendsetters (Greenbiz)
Since the launch of this newsletter, we've kept track of numerous sustainability-linked loans granted to fashion players (Prada, Moncler, Salvatore Ferragamo) and transparency-promoting platforms launched in collaboration with tech players (Google & WWF):
Given the competitive environment of the fashion industry and high-costs involved with supply chain optimization, the implementation of technological innovation across the supply chain requires substantial capital injections. As stated in this article, green finance and digital technology are interrelated and the key driver of change in the fashion industry toward positive environmental impact. There are exciting times ahead.
Data, Partnership Needed to Scale Circular Models in Fashion Industry (Sourcing Journal)
According to Sourcing Journal, circularity can become an economic driver for redefining the fashion supply chain and creation of the "supply network". Leveraging data through partnerships can help to boost the adoption of circularity mandates and move away the linear business model:
"Through the circular economy, innovation will come more and more into the spotlight, which will also help to come back better after the pandemic.” - Dr. Christina Raab, vice president of strategy and development, Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute
The Embrace motto for the rest of 2020: collaboration is key.
Why more brands are seeking out B Corp certifications (Vogue Business)
Vogue Business outlines the reasons behind the spike in interest of B Corp certification and its limitations:
B Corp [...] like all other sustainability coalitions, it’s entirely voluntary, limiting its overall impact. And the commitment and resources needed to meet B Corp’s rigorous standards — considered to be a strength — can hold the certification back from reaching mainstream and smaller brands.
The publication gives a fantastic outline of the ratings process:
More than 100,000 businesses have signed up for the B Corp Impact Assessment since its launch in 2006, and only 3,500 companies are B Corp certified. The process grades brands on a points system that measures five key areas: governance, workers, environment, customers and community. Eighty points are needed to pass. The process also highlights a company’s weaknesses, offering a roadmap to more positive, sustainable business practices.
After ditching Boohoo, ASOS sets new sustainability and ethics requirements for brands (Edie)
Following the Boohoo fallout, last week the online retailer ASOS has introduced four new requirements for all UK third-party brands:
signing the Transparency Pledge, which will require them to regularly and publicly disclose their manufacturing supply chain;
mapping and having visibility on all parts of their UK garment manufacturing supply chain, and providing evidence of visibility to ASOS;
identifying environmental and social risks within their supply base and developing strategies to mitigate them
joining the Fast Forward auditing program, a labor standards improvement program “to uncover hidden exploitation and drive collaborative continuous improvement in supply chains.”
While working conditions may improve in one country, what happens to those companies manufacturing outside the UK? In order to tackle this issue, ASOS is planning to roll out similar commitments for international brands in the coming months.
Michael Kors, Tory Burch linked to "unfair" factory dismissals, report says (Vogue Business)
Here Vogue Business investigates the unfair practices of fashion players related to the labor rights in Asian countries:
Michael Kors, Tory Burch and Kate Spade are among brands linked to nine factories that have targeted more than 4,870 union members with unfair dismissals, according to a new Business & Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC) report. The Bangladesh, Cambodia, India and Myanmar factories blame reduced orders and Covid-19, but local unions say members and activists have been disproportionately targeted by the layoffs.
The discrepancy between government policies and labor practices in the apparel industry continues to be an excuse for the shortcomings of the fractured supply chain, but hope for change remains.
Around the news
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition updates Higg Index to better measure sustainability - the SAC's updated version of the Higg Index enables deeper dive into material assessment, provides enhanced user experience, a new database, and updated scoring.
Diesel joins Better Cotton Initiative - the Italian brand walks the talk, following its launch "For Responsible Living" sustainability goals this past January.
Allbirds & Chinatown Market Launch Sustainability-Focused Collab - the B-corp footwear brand teamed up with a streetwear brand for a multi-phase collaboration, which kicked off last week with an auction of a collection of upcycled pieces from artist Nicole McLaughlin and an Instagram contest for a chance to win a two-week digital mentorship.
Fashion For Good resumes polybag recycling project - the pilot scheme will see UK recycler First Mile collecting and recycling plastic polybags from retail stores located in central London. The aim of the project is to test a scalable recycling infrastructure and tackle the issue of plastic polybag waste in the fashion industry.
Scientists are growing colored cotton, the latest in sustainability fashion - an innovative solution from Australia to reduce the textile dyeing pollution - genetically modified black-colored cotton.
Fast food chain launches sustainable clothing - the US-based Chipotle introduced Chipotle Goods, a line of "responsibly sourced" and upcycled clothing and accessories with an eco-twist: cotton dyed with avocado pits.
FASHION REVOLUTION - a not-for-profit global movement for a fairer, safer, cleaner and more transparent fashion industry.
Founded in 2013 in the response to the Rana Plaza disaster, the organization publishes annually Fashion Transparency Index to incentivize and push major brands to be more transparent, and encourage them to disclose more information about their policies, practices and supply chain.
Fashion Revolution week happens every year in the week coinciding with 24th April, the anniversary of the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh.